Kungsholmen is an island neighborhood in modern Stockholm. Yet, its roots stretch back to the 1500s, being depicted in the famous “Blodbadsplanschen” (Stockholm Bloodbath) of 1524 and used by the Franciscan monastery for farming, fishing and brick making. Indeed, at the time it was called “Monk’s Camp” (Munkliderna). By 1645, the island got its first bridge and in 1671 a Kungsholmen parish (and church) were established).
It’s in the Signs: Kungsholmen takes you on a tour
We journey around town and through history! For more information, and links, check out the full article below. Here’s hoping that the extra information will make a visit to Stockholm more fun and interesting. Or, if you’re just interested in history, that this “boots on the ground” visit helps connect past and present. Enjoy!
Don’t have a lot of time? Take a quick time warp spin with the companion video.
Background: Ore (or district or fief) farms
Importantly for our exploration, a Stockholm map was made in 1733 by Petrus Tillaeus. Indeed, it’s the first printed map of the city. On it, many of the “Ore” (or district or fief) farms are outlined. Indeed, many of those original farms are still recognizable today in neighorhoods such as Hornsberg, Marieberg, Kristineberg.
You might notice many “malms” around Stockholm: Sodermalm, Normalm, Ostermalm, Vastermalm. These all derive from the Swedish word “mala,” meaning to grind or crush stone and by extension to gravel, sand, moraine. Therefore, the sandy and rocky hills around Gamla Stan (Old Town, originally Stadsholmen or “city island”) were named simply South, North, East, West – “malm.” With more use, this “malm” morphed into “suburb” or outer district. In all these “malmarna” it was popular to have country houses, estates and gardens.
As mentioned above, the “Gray Brothers” (Gråbrödra) Franciscan brothers had what amounted to an estate of farms and a brickworks in the 1500s. With the Reformation of 1527, the island was in the possession of the king. As early as 1636 letters of privilege were issued, and the gardens got more organized. Indeed, these were mostly summer residences or leisure houses. They were mostly gardens where exotic plants (e.g. tobacco, or citrus in orangeries, medicinals, herbs) were planted. Owners were not allowed to be registered on their ore (i.e. district or fief) farm, and part of any harvest was to be left to the city “so that the city’s income is improved.” These Malmgarden offered comfort and space, where nobility could have the comfort and space of their castles, just “in the countryside.”
Gripenhielm
It's in the Signs Kungsholmen tour starts next to the City Hall, which while built in 1924 sits across from an ore (district) farm that dates to 1674: Gripenhielm. This portion of land was granted as a donation by the City of Stockholm to Emund Gripenhielm (who was Figelius before being raised to nobility in 1660), court councilor and the teacher or Charles XI. Gripenhielm became a baron in 1673, the year before receiving this ore estate. One gets an idea of why when reading descriptions at the time: “swampy,” “unhealthy” headlands of Laka Klara (a portion of Lake Malaren between Kungsholmen and Normalm). The charter of grant notes the efforts made to make it more comfortable: the previously useless and barren mountains partly blown away, partly with an extension deconstructed and covered, as well as a marshy flat filled in and then a beautiful garden laid out.
The completed layout, and a sense of the garden be seen on the 1724 map by Johann Baptist Homann. Gripenhielm abuts the bridge, ringed by trees, above the word “Norder.”
Speaking of bridges, the “new” Kungsholmensbron (Kungsholmen bridge) built in 1669-1672 connected the island neighborhood’s main street of Hantverkargatan (“Craftsman Street”) to Normalm and the other sections of the city. At 500 meters, it was likely the longest bridge in Europe at the time. As interesting, it was a floating bridge. What a sight it must have been! It’s a little hard to imagine today, because so much landfill as shortened this distance to a mere 85 meters (covered by the current City Hall Bridge).
The ore manor buildings have been rebuilt and extended several times over the centuries. Even so, one can visit them today! Be sure to check out the tours above.
Kungsholmen Strandstig
Making our way along the northern rim of the island, we first come to the Tekniska nämndhuset (Technical Board House), a municipal administrative building. The current red brick buildings were built in 1962-1965, on the grounds of earlier “genius industry” Seperator AB, a steam turbine company. In the late 1800s, this entire section was covered in factories and wharfs. The original Grundberg factory that stretched from the location of the Technical Board to Grubben’s Mill (more below). Indeed, by around 1900 the factory had grown from 345 employees to around 1,300. The only remaining building of that 1890s powerhouse is across the street from the Technical Board’s modern red brick, at Klamparen 8.
St. Erik & Grubbensparken
In 1587 there was a brick works here, built at the request of the Dutch master mason Henrik Van der Hufven. However, by the 1700s, the area was owned by Michael Grubb, later ennobled as commercial councilor, and became Grubben. He joined the Knight’s House and was also elected to the Academy of Sciences (in 1767), due to a donation of birds of paradise. While he was excluded (with other “useless” members) in 1783, his scientific name lives on in a family of plants: Grubbia.
The Grubben Ore garden (a.k.a. farm) was the site of a famous mill: Grubben’s Mill. It is depicted in many paintings, and in some maps. The rocky pinnacle it stood on is still there, although today it’s a dog park! Be sure to see it up close and personal in the videos above.
By 1864, Grubben’s had become a location for welfare, offering food, accommodation and work for the poor, unemployed, disabled and sick. Ultimately, the name was changed to “Stockholm City General Supply Facility.” Many of these builds are still visible on site. By the late 1800s a hospital had been established on the site, and in 1922 it was named St. Erik’s Nursing Home, on the site of St. Erik’s Eye Clinic today (2024). However, in the 1990s, most of the area was completed renovated into housing and renamed for the clinic: St. Erik’s, even as the street is called Grubbensringen (Grubben’s Ring) and the area inside the housing is called Grubbens Park.
Perhaps most interesting, inside Grubbenspark is a small chapel, that was part of the 1900s General Supply Facility and St. Erik’s hospital – providing comfort and funeral services. It was built in 1911-1913, however, it was originally several hundred meters from where it stand today. In 1994 it was moved to it’s current location, and was the first time a brick building was moved without first demolishing it. The chapel can be seen on the 1930s map, as the small rectangular building with winding paths in front of it. It now rests where the “gel” of “Tegelbruket” is on the map. Be sure to check out the videos for more on-the-ground details!
Little Hornsberg
Travelling further along the rim of Kungsholmen takes us to Lilla Hornsberg (Little Hornsberg). This area was originally the manor house’s guardhouse, but was separated from the property in the 1760s. The section runs from Mariedal (the main yellow building) to the red wooden buildings abutting Karlsberg Bridge (named for the palace and now army camp across the water). The buildings were in very poor condition and in 1950s, the city renovated them. Until 1989, Mariedal was a writers house, and since 1990 Lilla Hornberg has been rented by The Literary Societies of Sweden. In the summer, there’s a lovely café – terrific place to spend a long summer evening!
By contrast, the red buildings was called “The Depravity” (or Perdition), an inn and bar. It was called that because it was a good place to ruin your finances!
Much of the waterfront here was been reclaimed (i.e. filled in) and in 2024 houses a marina + running path, connecting to Hornsberg Strand & Greater Hornsberg)
Great Hornsberg
Along with many other Kungsholmen ore (district or fief) farms, Hornsberg was founded in 1646, donated to Gustav Horn. He originally built a baroque palace and garden with two wings and built in the Dutch style. Also typical of the farms of the time, there was a large botanical collection, such that even when the site was mostly abandoned after Horn’s death, Carl von Linee spent time here in 1731 conducting studies. (von Linee is famous for laying down the modern naming conventions for biology, plans and animals in Systema Naturae, 1735)
In the 1750s the industrialization of the site began, first with a textile factory and later a sugar mill. These were replaced by the Stora Brewery in 1890. Even so, the surrounding lands of Kungsolmen were very empty at the time.
Be sure to check out the videos to see what the site looks like today, in 2024. The brewery building is still there – even if it’s not making beer anymore.
Kristineberg
This ore estate was also granted in 1624, and to Field Marshal Lennart Torstenson, as a thank you for his efforts in the Thirty Years War. At the time, it was described as “a meadow and a garden.” It was right next door to, and shared a boundary with Great Hornsberg.
It is featured regularly on maps of the city, and it’s development across the centuries can easily be recognized. Today it is a school, making use of many of the original manor houses. It also is home to the locally-famous “owl playground,” named for it’s fanciful climbing equipment. Plus, there’s now a top-notch running track and soccer pitch.
Be sure to see the videos above to walk around those, plus the orchard and an abandoned highway access, not to mention the 800+ year old “Birger Jarl Oak”!
Adolfberg Villa
Not everything on Kungsholmen has ancient roots. Just, a lot of it!This villa was built in 1851 as a summer house for Jonas Adolf Wallden, owner and editor-in-chief of Stockholm Dagblad (Daily News). In 1959 the house was moved to this location, across a distance of about 100 meters, to make way for a new bridge, which you can’t miss when you’re there!
Smedsudden
In the 1700s, this area was called Smedsholmen, or Smeds Island. The glassmaker, Gustaf Hard and A. Roding, gave it this name. However, by around 1800, much of the water around the smaller islands was filled in, and it became a peninsula. By 1812, it was purchased by Abraham Fineman, who built his ore garden and manor here. The site was purchased by Commander Captain Oscar Fredrik Kreuger and in around 1878 built his own manor house here, in the Swiss style. This included the “Annex” built in 1884, described as workers housing. In the 1930s, Stockholm city acquired much of the land for a park (which it still is!). The buildings fell into disrepair, and were turned into a café in the 1970s, and in 1996 it was run a back-to-work program for former addicts. In 1997 though, the building burned and was damaged beyond repair. Everything but the Annex was knocked down, leaving a grassy plateau to visit today (in 2024).
Rålambshov's farm
During the 1430s, the Franciscan “Gray Brothers” had a brickworks here. However, by the 1600s, a brick barn stood here, with a house a little higher up the slope. In 1706 Baron Ake Ralamb leased the farm as his ore garden, and it’s his name that sticks to the site today.
As noted above, Kungsholmen was mostly empty and even in 1915, Rålambshov, together with a few farms at Smedsudden, was alone on southern Kungsholmen. This all began to change with Stockholm’s highest bridge, built in the 1930s. The Vasterbron, with 26 meters of sail-free height, was built here. The Ralambshaov farm was expected to be demolished, but wound up being left right here, with he northern bridge foundations and span passing along Rålambshov's roof! The adjoining park, also established in the 1930s, further decreased the size of the garden (farm), and as of 2009 the historic house is a private residence.
Be sure to follow along the boots-on-the-ground journey with the videos above!
Kongradsberg
Konradsberg is named for Konrad Heijsman who owned a plot of land here in the 1770s.
The hospital built here in 1855-1871 was one of Sweden's first psychiatric hospitals. It clearly resembles a castle, and was often called “lunatic castle.” The first patients came in November 1861. Public access was not really possible until the park was established further, in the 1980s. Today the buildings are used by a Montessori school (2024).
Kronobergsarken
This park was originally laid out in the 1866 plan. The name of the area can be seen on the Tillaeus map of 1733, and probably came from the site’s first owner, Johan Leijoncrona. Or, perhaps the name comes from the Kronoberg mill that sat atop the park’s peak? It certainly would have been famous as it was used to mill grain for the royal brandy distilleries.
Radhusparken & Piper's Wall
Piperska Muren (Piper’s Wall) was purchased in 1694 by Count Carl Piper. In 1702, his wife Christina erected a high wall, and the farm was called Piper’s Wall after that. Indeed, much of the work was done by Christina, as Carl accompanied Charles XII on the Great Nordic Wars with Russian in 1700 and 1709, spending a lot of time in captivity.
Across from today’s existing garden is Radhusparken. Where many government, judicial and police buildings (and their parks) all used to be part of Piper’s ore farm. These were all built around 1915, on top of the part of Piper’s that stretched from today’s visible garden to the aforementioned Kronosberg Park.
Since 1807 the site has been owned by the Stockholm Lodge of the Order of Coldinu, and the Swedish Order, as well as several other societies, who all have offices here. In addition to the order's own gatherings, the premises are now used for conferences and banquet activities.
Garrison Hospital
The Garrison Hospital in Stockholm, also known as the General Garrison Hospital, was a military hospital within the Swedish army that operated between 1811–1969.
In 1793 a light dragoons barracks building was located here and from 1806 called the Horse Guards. The barracks were transformed into a hospital in 1811, and rebuilt to their current form in 1816-1834. This location was chosen because, among other things, there was access to running water. In other words, this was a waterfront property in 1816. Of course, today with the landfilling, the site is 100 meters and more from the lake! Around 1952, the hospital was annexed to St. Goran (George) Hospital, and provided long-term care.
In 1971, the building’s hospital days ended and it was rebuilt to house the County Council.
Graver House
On the same site as the Garrison Hospital, this house was completed in 1754 as a residential building for the manufacturer and tanner Jacob Graver. His tannery, founded in partnership with John Jennings and Robert Finlay operated until 1762. The Graverska House became habitable in 1755, and Jacob Graver lived there with a household of 18 people.
Garvargatan
Naturally, with access to running water (mentioned above), and at the time quite separate from the rest of the city, along the Craftsman Street, there is a Garfware-gatan (Tannery Way) mentioned in 1669. Craftsman of all kinds moved here as early as the 1640s, including the first tanners who soon formed a small colony in the quarter south of Garvargatan. The tannery business remained until the beginning of the 20th century.
Be sure to check out the videos to see these amazing sites!
Kungsholmstorg
St. Eriks Bryggeri was a beer brewery located on Kungsholmstorg around 1859 and 1929. During its first decades, the brewery was one of the many during a pioneering period of the brewing industry in Sweden. The old Swedish beer was pushed aside during this period in favor of the new Bavarian beer.
In the 1870s, the brewery launched a beer named S:t Erik, which was such a great success the company changed names “St. Erik’s Brewery” in 1881. Which was no surprise, because in 1880, it had been appointed Royal Court Supplier. In 1887 the brewery was modernized with a malt house, a warehouse and of course all the brewing rooms. The six-story brick building was completed in 1890 and faced Kungsholmstorg. The facades of those original buildings can still be easily seen.
Check them out in the videos above!
Kungsholmen Church
Originally Kungsholmen was mostly used by the “Gray Brothers,” Franciscan monks. However, after the Reformation and with new bridges to the island, a parish and church were established here in 1671. Originally services were held in a small wooden building. But in 1672 work began on the church building you can see today. After Karl XI had donated considerable funds to the building, the foundation was laid on 10 May 1673. As often happens with church building (!) financial complications and disputes, stopped construction in 1676 and was resumed in1685. The church was inaugurated on Sunday 2 December 1688. However, the interior of the church was half finished and the vault was missing.
The church's original 23 Carolinian windows disappeared in connection with the restoration in 1882. During the rebuilding in 1954–56, these missing artifacts were found, and 20 of them give the church room its golden yellow light today (2024). They are all uniformly composed: under a crown a biblical language, the donor's name and the year 1688.
Royal Mint
Across the street from the Kungsholmen Church is the Royal Mint. Not to be confused with the royal coin collection or the economics museum, this is the site were coins were manufactured.
In the 1680s, this was the site of an ore garden. The site changed hands and occupations from a blacksmith’s forge, to a textile printing and dye works through the 1700s. In the early 1880s, Samuel Own, the “father of Swedish mechanical industry” established in workshop here. In 1847, the block was taken over by the Royal Mint and Inspection Works. Old wooden sheds were removed, existing stone buildings renovated and a new workshop built. The buildings included accommodation for employees, forgers, mint directors and their families – who all probably spent much of their lives here because it was a strictly limited-access site!
Since coins were forged here, and the precious gold, silver and copper stored on site, the mint was defended by surrounding walls and and hidden underground bunkers. The protective guardhouses and gates can easily be seen today. The mint itself moved in 1974, and the buildings today hose mostly offices, yet the grounds are still very much what they were.
Be sure to see them up close and person in the above videos!
Kungsholmen Glassworks & Old Karolinska institute
Next door to the mint, across the deceptive street, is the Glassworks Island. “Island”?Yes, that’s what’s decptive! In 1686, the site is clearly seen as an island. All the surrounding water has mostly been filled in since then!
The island was established as a glassworks center in the late 1720s. By the 1750s, other maps show landfilling along the southern and eastern portions of the island. In 1815 the glassworks were shut down and with landfilling and building, the Karolinska Institute moved in. By 1870, the island was no longer. And neither were the glassworks. The landfilling continued from 1885, until in 1923 the current shoreline was established when the city hall was constructed (completed 1924).
Order of the Seraphim Hospital
Coming full circle, we return to Gripenhelm. However, it too has transformed. In the 1700s, it was an idyllic ore garden.
By 1734, proposals were already on the table to have a hospital in the capital for both care and teaching. In 1739 the Health Commission obtained authorizations and started a fund for the foundation and maintenance of the hospital. In 1746 doctors became more and more interested, advocating for action. In 1749 the king purchased Hornska Huset (formerly Gripenhielm’s garden), and the hospital was placed under two Seraphim Knights in 1752. Thereafter, it was called the Royal Seraphim Order Hospital or the Royal Seraphim Hospital. In 1792 the grand portal was installed, and moved to is current location in 1928 as part of construction and expansion. (Today, in 2024, you can have a nice coffee there!)
The Seraphim Hospital always functioned as a teaching and research hospital and the chief doctors were usually professors at the Karolinska Institute. Despite further expansion of the hospital and the site, in the 1910s discussions for modernization were underway. However, these discussions went on a long time. Indeed, the hospital was still in full swing on April 6, 1964, when the first kidney transplant was performed in Sweden at the this hospital. In 1937 the Royal Seraphim Hospital was overtaken by the state, and began losing ground with the establishment of the Karolinska Hospital in 1940 and the Huddinge Hospital in 1972. The hospital was closed in 1980. Today, the site is mostly a neighborhood clinic and emergency room, with a children care center.
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